Thursday, February 14
I could feel the ship rolling and pitching all night. Every now and then there would be a very loud thud when a wave would hit hard...typical in a forward cabin in rough seas. At 1:30 am I woke up to use the bathroom and found out Bob was awake. He had been up several times and wasn't feeling well. With meclazine in his system I wondered if this wasn't something more than sea sickness.
I slept fine and actually enjoyed the rocking motion of the ship. I didn't want to wake Bob so stayed in bed myself as long as possible. I had sort of planned to go to "Coffee with the Cruise Director" at 9 am, but when I looked at the clock it was already 9:30! (I can't remember when I've slept that late!) I quickly dressed, put the "do not disturb" sign on the door and went up to the buffet. I had a yogurt/granola parfait and then went to the port talk on the Falkland Islands.
Showing posts with label Antarctica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Antarctica. Show all posts
February 14, 2019
February 13, 2019
Antarctica Day #4 (Admiralty Bay)
Wednesday, February 13
Our first view out of our window was a large tabular iceberg. I'm sorry that we didn't have a balcony for this cruise, but very grateful that we at least had the window. Holland America classifies the balcony cabins on the Zaandam as suites and there was a huge jump in price to upgrade from the ocean view cabin...more than we were willing to spend.
Trying to convey what Antarctica is like in words and photos is so hard. Here is a link to a video I put together that does a little better job. It also lets you see how much the whales were showing off!! 😉
Video of Our Days in Antarctica
Our first view out of our window was a large tabular iceberg. I'm sorry that we didn't have a balcony for this cruise, but very grateful that we at least had the window. Holland America classifies the balcony cabins on the Zaandam as suites and there was a huge jump in price to upgrade from the ocean view cabin...more than we were willing to spend.
February 12, 2019
Antarctica Day #3 (East Side Dallman Bay, Charlotte Bay, Schollaert Channel)
Tuesday, February 12
Weather-wise, our third day in Antarctica wasn't as stellar...but wildlife-wise it was like winning the lottery!!
When I first looked out our window at 6:30 am everything was totally gray. The clouds were so low that everything above water level was hidden. I turned on the TV at 7:00 when we were scheduled to get to the east side of Dallmann Bay but the commentary didn't begin until around 7:30. By 8:00 we were finally up and getting dressed.
When we got to the buffet for breakfast Kent and Laurel were already there. We joined them and ate slowly watching as whales and penguins passed by the window. Bob and Laurel both were complaining of oncoming colds.
After breakfast, Kent went to work out and Laurel went back to their cabin. Bob and I went up to the Crow's Nest. It was crowded but we were able to find two chairs in the "second row". The clouds were lifting and a few small patches of blue were showing. Looking out the windows wasn't great for photography, but the expansive view for such a high level was impressive. The group spoke in hushed tones until a whale would show off and then the group would all cheer!
Weather-wise, our third day in Antarctica wasn't as stellar...but wildlife-wise it was like winning the lottery!!
When I first looked out our window at 6:30 am everything was totally gray. The clouds were so low that everything above water level was hidden. I turned on the TV at 7:00 when we were scheduled to get to the east side of Dallmann Bay but the commentary didn't begin until around 7:30. By 8:00 we were finally up and getting dressed.
When we got to the buffet for breakfast Kent and Laurel were already there. We joined them and ate slowly watching as whales and penguins passed by the window. Bob and Laurel both were complaining of oncoming colds.
After breakfast, Kent went to work out and Laurel went back to their cabin. Bob and I went up to the Crow's Nest. It was crowded but we were able to find two chairs in the "second row". The clouds were lifting and a few small patches of blue were showing. Looking out the windows wasn't great for photography, but the expansive view for such a high level was impressive. The group spoke in hushed tones until a whale would show off and then the group would all cheer!
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| The Crow's Nest is a great place to enjoy Antarctica...if ONLY the windows were clean. |
February 11, 2019
Antarctica Day #2 (Paradise Bay, Neumayer Channel)
Monday, February 11
No alarm today. I got up a little before 7 am and went to the buffet to get a muffin and coffee. With our cabin at the front of deck 1 and the buffet at the back of deck 8, I did get a little exercise doing this! Staff from the Palmer Research Station arrived by zodiac about the same time and were spending the day on the Zaandam.
Bob and I dressed in our arctic gear and went to the back of Deck 6. This time we were the only ones there. The day began with sun and blue skies but was turning gray by noon.
No alarm today. I got up a little before 7 am and went to the buffet to get a muffin and coffee. With our cabin at the front of deck 1 and the buffet at the back of deck 8, I did get a little exercise doing this! Staff from the Palmer Research Station arrived by zodiac about the same time and were spending the day on the Zaandam.
Bob and I dressed in our arctic gear and went to the back of Deck 6. This time we were the only ones there. The day began with sun and blue skies but was turning gray by noon.
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| Looking out our cabin window. |
February 10, 2019
Antarctica, Day #1 (Dallmann Bay, Cuverville Island, Wilhelmina Bay)
Sunday, February 10
I wasn't ready to get up when the alarm went off at 6:30 am, but this is what we came for...ANTARCTICA!
The planned route had us sailing through Dallman Bay with commentary to start around 7 am. Bob and I made a quick trip up to the Lido and grabbed muffins and a coffee for me and brought them back to the cabin to eat while we got geared up for the cold. Once I got the warm weather clothes on, I had to get outside quick...or die of a heatstroke.
At first there was a layer of low hanging dark clouds, but slowly the sun began to find its way through a bit. We enjoyed the scenery from deck 3 first and then went out on the bow and up to the deck just below the bridge until around 9:00. We then took a break and went to breakfast (or 2nd breakfast in our case). During the time we were on the bow I managed to trip over one of the metal supports for the hull and fell flat. No physical injuries, but my ego sustained a bruising.
I wasn't ready to get up when the alarm went off at 6:30 am, but this is what we came for...ANTARCTICA!
The planned route had us sailing through Dallman Bay with commentary to start around 7 am. Bob and I made a quick trip up to the Lido and grabbed muffins and a coffee for me and brought them back to the cabin to eat while we got geared up for the cold. Once I got the warm weather clothes on, I had to get outside quick...or die of a heatstroke.
At first there was a layer of low hanging dark clouds, but slowly the sun began to find its way through a bit. We enjoyed the scenery from deck 3 first and then went out on the bow and up to the deck just below the bridge until around 9:00. We then took a break and went to breakfast (or 2nd breakfast in our case). During the time we were on the bow I managed to trip over one of the metal supports for the hull and fell flat. No physical injuries, but my ego sustained a bruising.
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| Gray and windy at first. |
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| A little blue starting to show through. |
February 9, 2019
Drake Passage, South Shetland Islands, Deception Island
I woke before 6 am and peaked out the window. I saw something white on the horizon against the gray sky. I got excited and thought it might be an iceberg, but then decided it was just clouds and crawled back in bed. 😴
I got up about an hour later, dressed quietly and went up to the Lido to get some coffee. (I sure wish HAL provided in-room coffee makers as Norwegian does!) I knew Bob would still be sleeping so I stopped by the library and looked through one of the books on Antarctic that was available. (The library on the Zaandam is pretty impressive...the best of any we have seen on a ship.) When I got back to our cabin, Bob was just starting to stir.
Using his binoculars, Bob looked out the window and could see a large tabular iceberg off in the distance. By the time he dressed and we made it up to breakfast, the Zaandam was just passing by the iceberg.
We got layered up in our warm clothes and went outside with Kent and Laurel as we were approaching the South Shetland Islands. The Zaandam was now sailing past much, much larger icebergs than the one which got us so excited last night.
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| Approaching the South Shetland Islands |
During the Q & A session after the lecture, Laurel and I left to beat the crowd to the buffet. Bob and Kent joined us and we ate quickly to get done and be outside as the Zaandam approached Deception Island.
Over the course of the few days when we were in Antarctica I slowly perfected the combination of layers that seemed to work best for keeping warm. (With the ship moving, it was pretty chilly out on the open decks...but still about 60º warmer than what the actual temps were at home!)
My clothing amounted to either Cuddle Duds long underwear or a pair of fleece-lined leggings under my jeans and then topped by a pair of REI rain pants to block the wind. On top was a warm sweatshirt or sherpa top, my Columbia fleece jacket and finally my parka-length Eddie Bauer packable down coat. For headwear I had a fleece lined knitted beanie covered by a microfleece hood that I got at Kohls. This protected my neck and I could pull it up over my chin and mouth. I also pulled up the hood on my down coat...so 3 layers on my head altogether! I had purchased convertible wool mittens that could be folded back to expose the tips of my fingers to use my camera but these I never wore. Instead I put Hot Hands hand warmers inside my snuggly fitting gloves and my hands stayed toasty warm. I had also brought along foot warmers, but never used any. Wool socks kept my feet plenty warm. Getting dressed was time consuming, but we stayed outside for long periods of time and were comfortable.
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| Dressed for Antarctica! |
Deception Island is a former volcano where the caldera has filled with water. There is an entrance on one side of the caldera that some ships can enter, but the Zaandam is too large. The commentary started as we got close to the island.
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| Google Map showing location of Zaandam near South Shetland Islands. |
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| Zaandam approaching Deception Island. |
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| The opening into the caldera at Deception Island. |
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| Lots of birds around the island. |
On one shore was a very large colony of chinstrap penguins...pretty far away even with a binoculars or long zoom.
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| The penguin colony was huge! |
We spent a lot of time on the outside decks in the afternoon and were rewarded with various wildlife sightings.
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| A pod of killer whales. |
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| Penguins floating by on an iceberg. |
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| A "porpoising penguin". (Say that fast three times!!) |
Later in the afternoon, as promised, the captain sailed the ship past a tabular (flat on top) iceberg that was 5 miles wide by 11 miles long. According to Bryan, the expedition guide, Antarctica is divided up into 4 quadrants (A, B, C, and D) and the largest icebergs are given names based on where it originated. This one was A57. The berg was 180 feet tall above the water and as much as 1000 feet of ice was below the surface. Bryan said that if the ice was melted it would make enough water to run the Nile River for 75 years!!
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| One end of the massive iceberg. |
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| A close-up of the iceberg. |
Not wanting to miss anything, we chose to stay outdoors longer and skip eating in the dining room. Many of the choices at the Lido buffet were the same as what was on the dining room menu and it was a great...and quicker...alternative. We were worried we might miss something if we spent a couple of hours in the dining room.
Walking back through the mid-ship pool area after eating, the guys stopped for a little ping pong and then we went up to the Crow's Nest. At that time most passengers were having dinner or at the show and there were very few people up there. (The evening show at the Mainstage Theater was "Ancora"..."classical crossover vocal harmony group made up of four of the UK's finest classically trained young voices.")
Tomorrow's schedule has the expedition guides' commentary scheduled to start at 7 am as the Zaandam sails through Dallman Bay...time to call it a night and get some sleep.
February 8, 2019
Cape Horn
Friday, February 8
Narration for our circumnavigation of Cape Horn was to begin around 7 am. When we woke it was obvious the ship was rocking more so Bob and I both took a dose of meclazine just to be safe. I made a quick trip up to the buffet and grabbed a cup of coffee and some pastries and brought it all back to the cabin for a "pre-breakfast".
When we went outside, we could see the lighthouse and the sculpture of the albatross using our binoculars. The Celebrity Eclipse and the smaller Stella Australis were right in front of the island. In his commentary, Kevin said that we would sail around the island and then it would be the Zaandam's turn to sail "past the horn". It was going to be awhile before that happened.
As we waited, it began to rain. I went back inside the cabin and listened to the commentary over the TV until we had gotten around to the other side of the island. During that time the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to peak through.
The Celebrity Eclipse had pulled away, but the smaller expedition ship was still in the area and with binoculars (or my camera zoom) we could see people were going by zodiac from the ship to the shore. They were climbing up a very steep set of steps to get to the top of the hill.
Once we "rounded the Horn", the Zaandam started across the Drake passage headed for Antarctica. Later in the cruise we were all "awarded" certificates acknowledging that we had followed in the footsteps of the great explorers when we went around the horn.
The four of us went for a late breakfast at the buffet, along with most everyone else on the ship. Bob and Kent went to a lecture at 10 am on the Antarctica treaty. I spent some time backing up photos in the cabin and then I joined Bob and Kent for the 11:00 lecture by Bryan titled "Antarctica - Isolated at the South." The topic turned out to the geology of the region and not about living in isolation as I had thought. I wasn't that interested, but had taken my iPad and worked on my blog notes as I half listened to what was being said.
Once the lecture was over everyone rushed off to eat lunch. We knew that the buffet would be a zoo (just like at breakfast) so we took our time leaving the theater. We hung around the guest services area and listened to the organ play at 12:15. (I had listened a few days ago but the others hadn't heard it yet.)
The lines to get food were very short when we got to the buffet, but finding a table was a challenge. Eventually we found one in the Canaletto part of the dining room. We lingered over lunch and then went back to the theater for a talk on penguins. A combination of a full tummy, the meclazine, and a speaker with a soothing voice had me nodding off...and Bob too.
I actually wanted to hear the talk at 3:00 on "My Life at Sea" but there was no way I could stay awake. Bob and I went back to the cabin for nap time. Bob was so sleepy that he laid down on the bed, covered up with his coat and didn't even bother taking off his shoes.
Over an hour later, I had to force myself to get out of bed to shower and get ready for dinner!
After dinner the entertainment on the Mainstage was Duo Yalba...two men who played music from all over the world on many different instruments. They were accompanied by the ship band. Unique...and not something we would ever experience except on a cruise.
Sunset was getting later each evening so when we left the theater we went up to the Crow's Nest. The minute we walked in I saw we were approaching a really large (at least at that point it seemed large) iceberg. I took a few photos with my iPhone but knew I could get a much better picture with the zoom on my camera.
I ran back to the cabin, grabbed my coat (the temps were in the 30's) and went outside. When I turned the camera on all I heard was a "click, click, click" and the sound of gears grinding. I frantically turned the camera on and off a few times but each time the result was the same...nothing. I took the battery out and replaced it but still nothing. I can't begin to tell you the sick feeling I had. Going to Antarctica without a camera!!! NO...it couldn't be happening!!
Bob went with me and I took the camera up to the photo shop for advice. The gal working there played around with the camera but said there was probably no way to fix it. I started looking at the cameras they had for sale. We had quite a bit of onboard credit which would help take the sting out of a large purchase. There was no way that I was going to be happy taking all of my photos with my iPhone.
I asked to look at any cameras they had with a decent zoom. I looked at a Nikon with an 83x zoom. Nice...but very big. A Canon with a 35x zoom was small enough but had no viewfinder which I really wanted. As I was looking at the cameras, Bob took mine and started twisting and pulling on the lens. He couldn't make it any worse, so why not! He yanked off the filter AND the rim around the lens but the camera started working! Yay!!
It was reassuring to know that I could purchase a new camera if needed but for now my old Canon SX-50 seemed to work. What a relief!
Although the seas had been a little rocky first thing in the morning, most of our day on the Drake Passage had been smooth sailing. We were experiencing the "Drake Lake" instead of the dreaded "Drake Shake!"
Narration for our circumnavigation of Cape Horn was to begin around 7 am. When we woke it was obvious the ship was rocking more so Bob and I both took a dose of meclazine just to be safe. I made a quick trip up to the buffet and grabbed a cup of coffee and some pastries and brought it all back to the cabin for a "pre-breakfast".
When we went outside, we could see the lighthouse and the sculpture of the albatross using our binoculars. The Celebrity Eclipse and the smaller Stella Australis were right in front of the island. In his commentary, Kevin said that we would sail around the island and then it would be the Zaandam's turn to sail "past the horn". It was going to be awhile before that happened.
 |
As we waited, it began to rain. I went back inside the cabin and listened to the commentary over the TV until we had gotten around to the other side of the island. During that time the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to peak through.
 |
| The memorial to the sailors who have died going around the horn features the silhouette of an albatross. |
The Celebrity Eclipse had pulled away, but the smaller expedition ship was still in the area and with binoculars (or my camera zoom) we could see people were going by zodiac from the ship to the shore. They were climbing up a very steep set of steps to get to the top of the hill.
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| A very steep climb! |
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| Zodiacs loading at the back. |
Once we "rounded the Horn", the Zaandam started across the Drake passage headed for Antarctica. Later in the cruise we were all "awarded" certificates acknowledging that we had followed in the footsteps of the great explorers when we went around the horn.
The four of us went for a late breakfast at the buffet, along with most everyone else on the ship. Bob and Kent went to a lecture at 10 am on the Antarctica treaty. I spent some time backing up photos in the cabin and then I joined Bob and Kent for the 11:00 lecture by Bryan titled "Antarctica - Isolated at the South." The topic turned out to the geology of the region and not about living in isolation as I had thought. I wasn't that interested, but had taken my iPad and worked on my blog notes as I half listened to what was being said.
Once the lecture was over everyone rushed off to eat lunch. We knew that the buffet would be a zoo (just like at breakfast) so we took our time leaving the theater. We hung around the guest services area and listened to the organ play at 12:15. (I had listened a few days ago but the others hadn't heard it yet.)
The lines to get food were very short when we got to the buffet, but finding a table was a challenge. Eventually we found one in the Canaletto part of the dining room. We lingered over lunch and then went back to the theater for a talk on penguins. A combination of a full tummy, the meclazine, and a speaker with a soothing voice had me nodding off...and Bob too.
I actually wanted to hear the talk at 3:00 on "My Life at Sea" but there was no way I could stay awake. Bob and I went back to the cabin for nap time. Bob was so sleepy that he laid down on the bed, covered up with his coat and didn't even bother taking off his shoes.
Over an hour later, I had to force myself to get out of bed to shower and get ready for dinner!
After dinner the entertainment on the Mainstage was Duo Yalba...two men who played music from all over the world on many different instruments. They were accompanied by the ship band. Unique...and not something we would ever experience except on a cruise.
Sunset was getting later each evening so when we left the theater we went up to the Crow's Nest. The minute we walked in I saw we were approaching a really large (at least at that point it seemed large) iceberg. I took a few photos with my iPhone but knew I could get a much better picture with the zoom on my camera.
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| We got so excited when we spotted this iceberg. In less than 24 hours we wouldn't have even paid attention to one this small! |
I ran back to the cabin, grabbed my coat (the temps were in the 30's) and went outside. When I turned the camera on all I heard was a "click, click, click" and the sound of gears grinding. I frantically turned the camera on and off a few times but each time the result was the same...nothing. I took the battery out and replaced it but still nothing. I can't begin to tell you the sick feeling I had. Going to Antarctica without a camera!!! NO...it couldn't be happening!!
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| Taken with my iPhone. 😞 |
Bob went with me and I took the camera up to the photo shop for advice. The gal working there played around with the camera but said there was probably no way to fix it. I started looking at the cameras they had for sale. We had quite a bit of onboard credit which would help take the sting out of a large purchase. There was no way that I was going to be happy taking all of my photos with my iPhone.
I asked to look at any cameras they had with a decent zoom. I looked at a Nikon with an 83x zoom. Nice...but very big. A Canon with a 35x zoom was small enough but had no viewfinder which I really wanted. As I was looking at the cameras, Bob took mine and started twisting and pulling on the lens. He couldn't make it any worse, so why not! He yanked off the filter AND the rim around the lens but the camera started working! Yay!!
It was reassuring to know that I could purchase a new camera if needed but for now my old Canon SX-50 seemed to work. What a relief!
Although the seas had been a little rocky first thing in the morning, most of our day on the Drake Passage had been smooth sailing. We were experiencing the "Drake Lake" instead of the dreaded "Drake Shake!"
January 25, 2019
Our South America & Antarctica Adventure! (1-25-19)
Friday, January 25
OK...back to the original post...
(After you read through the daily blog posts from this trip, here are some videos that you might want to check out. These were uploaded two years later when I was trying to keep busy during the Covid pandemic!)
OK...back to the original post...
The day that seemed like it would never arrive was finally here! It was time to leave for our cruise to South America and Antarctica.
Heading south, even to Antarctica, seemed like a smart move given the frigid weather we were having in Minnesota. Checking the weather app first thing in the morning showed it was a cool ZERO degrees. But even that was warmer than what was coming in a few days. Time to get outta town!
Heading south, even to Antarctica, seemed like a smart move given the frigid weather we were having in Minnesota. Checking the weather app first thing in the morning showed it was a cool ZERO degrees. But even that was warmer than what was coming in a few days. Time to get outta town!
October 22, 2018
Double Digits!
Ninety-nine days...from today! I may be a little premature in posting about our next adventure but considering we booked over 500 days in advance it seems like we are finally getting close!
A couple of other events are also making our upcoming cruise start to feel real. This past week we made our final cruise payment and also visited a travel clinic to get the recommended vaccines for our trip (more on this later). I must admit both were a little painful!
So where are we going? To ANTARCTICA! Not in my wildest dreams did I ever think that we would travel to the end of the world! My daughter-in-law (the geography teacher) was excited when she found out and commented that so many people visit the other continents but very few make it to Antarctica. In my mind, putting a tick mark next to Antarctica before we have traveled to any other continents is like eating dessert before the meal. 😉 Whether true or not, I keep reading that visitors to Antarctica may soon be limited and I want to get there before it is too late!
Our 22-day cruise begins in Santiago, Chile and takes us past Cape Horn and through the Drake passage to Antarctica. As we head back north, we have a stop in the Falkland Islands before ending up in Buenos Aires.
The ship we are traveling on? The Holland America Zaandam. The same ship we were on this past spring when we cruised for 23 days from Florida...through the Panama Canal...and up to Canada. I expect we will feel very much at home when we board!
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| Source: HollandAmerica.com |
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