Cartagena, Colombia

January 31, 2023

When we woke up I could feel the ship rocking and shuddering (is that a word?)...the most we had experienced so far on the cruise. With a noon arrival in Cartagena, Colombia, it was almost like having a combination sea day/port day. Both of us took a dose of meclazine and laid in bed a little longer to give the medication time to start working before we got up.

The HAL Navigator app provided access to the NY Times newspaper which in turn gave me access to the daily Wordle puzzle. At home, my son and I text each other every morning sharing our results. It is a good day when I can solve the puzzle in less tries than him! Today's puzzle only took me three turns to solve and it was frustrating because without internet or cell service I couldn't brag!

Bob and I had breakfast at the buffet and then took the outdoor route down the back stairs to get back to our room. I was pleasantly surprised when the weather was cooler than I was expecting...79 degrees according to the Navigator app. I'm sure the cooler feel was due to the ocean breeze and the movement of the ship. I anticipated that it would be uncomfortably hot and humid once we arrived in Cartagena.
Since our afternoon would be busy, we opted to spend the morning relaxing on OUR deck enjoying the beautiful weather. Several ships were spotted and at one point we noticed two different distinct colors of water.

I have no idea why the water was two different colors.

Because the ship was scheduled to dock at noon, an express lunch was offered in the MDR beginning at 11:00. Knowing the lido buffet would be crazy, we went to the dining room where the fixed menu had only a couple of choices for appetizers and the main course. The Zaandam was just arriving in Cartagena as we were seated and we had a nice view of the skyline until the ship rotated and backed into the berth. The Eurodam was docked right next to us.

Backing into our parking spot next to the Eurodam.

The gangway was located on Deck A aft which was more convenient for us. The announcement had not yet been made that the ship was cleared when we went down as far as Deck 1. We joined a long line that had formed, stretching down the hallway. Once the gangway was opened, the line moved fast and we were off quickly.

The Zaandam was one of four ships docked and was the furthest away from the port exit. I had booked an independent group tour of Cartagena with "Dora the Explorer" online. A representative from the company was waiting at the end of the dock holding a sign with our names. We followed her through the cruise center and through an aviary and out to a parking lot. She walked us to a small taxi where we joined our guide, Josette, and the driver. I hadn't paid for a private tour, but that is what we got...just the two of us!

Traffic was horrendous but our driver was skilled at his job and expertly maneuvered us through the busy streets. Our first stop was Convento de la Popa, on a hill overlooking the city. The road leading to the convent was steep and narrow with many switchbacks. The 17th century convent provided panoramic views of the city of Cartagena. Inside the convent was a beautiful courtyard. A refreshing breeze provided a refreshing escape from the hot sun outside.

Fruit stand at entrance to La Popa.

Hazy view of Cartagena from La Popa.

Cruise ships...MSC Divina, Windstar Star Legend, HAL Eurodam, HAL Zaandam

Castle San Felipe de Barajas in center of photo.

Photo taken earlier from the ship. La Popa Convent sitting on top of the hill overlooking Cartagena.

Courtyard at La Popa.

Gold leaf alter in Chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria

Our next stop was at the Castle San Felipe de Barajas, built in the mid-1500's. We snapped some photos and Josette went over the history of the fort all from the air conditioned comfort of the taxi. I'm not sure that I would have survived the heat if we had gotten out to tour the fort.

That's a lot of bananas!

Castle San Felipe de Barajas

Continuing on, we stopped at an old prison where the cells had been converted into stalls for craft vendors. I think Josette had planned for us to stay and shop awhile, but neither of us were interested in purchasing anything. There were many different shops, but the merchandise was pretty much the same at each one.

Las Bovedas...bombproof vaults originally used to store ammunition, then converted to prison cells and now stores selling crafts and souvenirs.

View inside one of the shops.

Leaving the shopping area, our driver took us to the old city inside the walls built hundreds of years ago for protection against pirates and storms. Josette led us through the narrow streets providing details and information as we walked. The city reminded me of old San Juan with its colorful buildings and balconies adorned with flowers and tropical plants.

Standing on the wall surrounding the old city of Cartagena.

During his port talk, CD Ryan mentioned the impressive door knockers that we would see in the city and how these told a story of who once would have lived there. A lion indicated someone with power, a mermaid would be on the home of a fisherman, etc. Bob and I got carried away taking photos of the door knockers!

Another tidbit about the doors on some of the establishments...they were VERY tall with a normal sized door cut into the bigger door. Josette explained that the large doors allowed men on horseback to enter while the smaller door was for a person walking in.

Josette took us through the San Pedro Claver church (admission was included in our tour price). In the 1600's, Cartagena was a major slave trading center and Claver, a Jesuit priest, was known for ministering to the slaves. He has been called the "slave to the slaves." 

I had read that the street vendors were relentless in Cartagena (and there were many) but there weren't near as many and they weren't near as aggressive as those we encountered in Antigua.

As we were walking, we passed by a large group on a HAL tour (recognizable by the stickers on their shirts.) I was so thankful that we were spending the day alone with Josette and for probably the same price (or less). It was wonderful to be dropped off right at the places we visited and then have the driver waiting with the cool car when we were ready to leave.

At the end of our tour we were dropped off at the entrance to a free zoo of sorts right at the port. Peacocks, parrots, toucans, flamingos, monkeys, etc. all roaming free in a lush green area. There was also a small enclosure with an anteater and some very tiny deer-like animals.

Teeny, tiny squirrel.

A peacock showing off for the female.

Birdman Bob

The Zaandam was the last of the four ships to sail away from Cartagena. It was Caribbean night at the buffet and I enjoyed the meal as much as any so far in the cruise! We ate outdoors by the pool and watched the sun set behind the skyline of Cartagena as we headed back out to sea.

Caribbean Dinner

The World Stage show was "In Tandem" performed by the Step One Dancers. This was the show that had been postponed previously due to rough seas. The show began but by the end of the second number, the video screen went dark and the house lights came on with the announcement that the ship was (once again) moving too much for them to perform. Ryan came out and announced that Hank Denson was on his way to the theater and would do his comedy show in place of the dancers. Most of his material was ad lib and related to his last minute call to perform and our day in Colombia. He was a funny guy and like the other comedian on the ship, Jose Sarduy, had a surprising background...pediatric orthopedics! 

In Tandem dance show.

Comedian Hank Denson

I was wiped out from the heat and opted for an early evening back at the cabin. We didn't even have our nightly cup of tea by the pool! We did go down to the promenade deck and walked for a bit, but it was very windy! We went half of a loop and realized the other side of the ship was being soaked with sea spray so we turned around and called it quits.

The lights of Cartagena.

Being on a ship for a two-week cruise was nice. It was easier to relax and not feel the need to rush to fit everything in. Also this cruise had more sea days than average which I also enjoyed. BUT...as we turned in for the night the realization was setting in that the cruise was almost over. 😞

Panama Canal

January 30, 2023

Since I've been retired, there have been very few mornings that I have set an alarm for 5:30 am, but today was one of those days. And I wasn't even dreading getting up that early because I didn't want to miss any part of our trip through the Panama Canal!

Ryan, the CD, was scheduled to start his commentary on our transit of the canal at 6 am, but he began earlier. The commentary could be heard on any of the outside decks of the ship, the Crow's Nest or in the staterooms on the bow cam TV channel. The ship was ready to go under the Bridge of Americas on the Pacific side and it was still dark. Later in the week (at the Captain's talk) he mentioned that HAL had to pay $35,000 just for a "daytime" reservation plus $375/passenger. That amounted to over $440,000! No wonder the port fees are so high for a Panama Canal cruise!

The Bridge of Americas across the Panama Canal. This bridge is part of the Pan-American Highway.

Bob and I went to the bow which was open for the transit. Coffee and Panama Rolls (jelly filled buns) were being served and the temperature was very pleasant with a little wind. If only those conditions would last for the rest of the day! The rolls, coffee and orange juice were also being served in the Crow's Nest, the Atrium, and by the Sea View pool.

Even before sunrise there was a crowd on the bow of the Zaandam.

The bow was crowded and it was hard to get much of a view through all of the heads so after checking our back deck (too hot) we eventually we moved down to the Promenade Deck (deck 3). While we were on the bow I had a flashback to being there in Antarctica and tripping and falling flat on my face. Only my dignity was injured but it made me extra careful with my footing this time!

Entering the first of the Miraflores locks as the sun comes up. The green and gold arrow indicates which lane the ship should enter. The two men in the rowboat were waiting to catch the lines from our ship that would then be attached to the mules (locomotives) on shore. Mules on either side would help keep the ship centered as it went through the locks.

Getting a little help from a tug.

A mule tied to the Zaandam goes uphill as the ship is raised in the lock.

The bow of the Zaandam. The brown building is the visitor's center at the Miraflores Locks. Normally each level would be filled with onlookers, but it wasn't yet open at the early hour we went through.

Taken from our aft deck. The sun made us decide to look elsewhere for a place to view the canal.

We were fortunate to find two of the padded loungers on the shaded side of the promenade deck and stayed there until 11:30. On our first transit of the canal I was all over the place taking photos and video so this time I didn't feel the need to take"quite as many" pictures. During the time we were there we made it through the Miraflores and Pedro Miguel locks and a good part of Gatun Lake.

A tight fit! The Zaandam is 106.5 feet wide and the canal is 110 feet wide. 

Approaching the Centennial Bridge

Centennial Bridge

Culebra Cut...where the Panama Canal crosses the continental divide.

Sailing through Gatun Lake

We passed by Le Bellot, a Ponant Cruise Ship that holds up to 184 passengers.

As soon as the buffet opened at 11:30, we were eating lunch. I wanted to be finished and back outside for when the Zaandam passed through the Gatun Locks. We first went to the bow, but it was still quite crowded and had gotten uncomfortably hot. OUR private deck seemed the best place to experience the last set of three locks. Our lounge chairs were now in the shade, but the ship was going slow and there was not even a hint of a breeze.

Gatun Locks

The mules were turned around by using a turn table built into the wall of the locks.

While the Zaandam was being lowered 85 feet to sea level, we watched as other ships going in the opposite direction in the adjacent lane were being raised the same 85 feet to sail into Gatun Lake.

Bob left before we were completely out of the canal to go play pickleball. (He wanted to say he played in the Panama Canal!) I stuck it out till the end and the heat was just about more than I could handle. One saving factor...two crew members were nearby with cold, wet towels! 

Cold towels being offered as I sat in my lounge chair on MY deck!

I went up to the sports deck to get some photos of Bob. Its not every day that you can say you played pickleball in the Panama Canal! On my way back down, Ryan announced that an alligator was sunning himself on shore!

I was having trouble seeing the alligator through my camera lens. 

But I zoomed in all of the way and got this photo!

Atlantic Bridge

In 2018, the Atlantic Bridge was not yet complete as we began our transit of the Panama Canal in the opposite direction.

Three canals. 1) On the left is the new, wider Panama Canal. 2) The middle is the original canal and 3) on the far right is the canal started by the French but never completed.

A better view of the canal that the French began but never completed.

My sister was able to get this shot from the webcam as the Zaandam sailed through the canal!

At 2:30, anyone that wanted could go to the aft pool for an activity being billed as "Swim Across the Panama Canal." All they were doing was swimming across the pool and I didn't stick around to see if there were many that participated or not.

I showered and snuck in a little nap before Bob got back to the cabin. I have no idea how he was able to endure the heat AND play an aggressive game of pickleball (because he NEVER doesn't play to win.)

Nothing really stood out to us on the MDR menu, but we ate there anyway. Sometimes it is just nice to be served. We were able to get seated at our favorite table with our favorite waiter, Garis, and were in and out in plenty of time to get to the early show. 

Nestor Santurio was the headliner on the World Stage and his write up in the Daily Program (which USED to be called the When & Where) said he was a Latin guitar player, vocal artist and comedian. He was probably my least favorite of all of the entertainers we saw on the cruise. Not bad, just not the best.

Nestor Santurio

Normally we sat in the balcony at the theater, but the lady in the row ahead of us was constantly blowing her nose and just gave me vibes that she wasn't well. I made Bob switch seats and since there were no other seats in the balcony we moved down to the lower level. I felt more comfortable and we had a better view as well!

I could just copy and paste from previous posts to describe the rest of our evening...we were defintely into a routine. Leave the theater, listen to a set or two from Clara, the piano bar entertainer in the Mix Bar or maybe the classical duo performing in the Explorer's Lounge. Then we moved up to the lido and got a cup of tea which we drank under the stars and moon (a full moon even!) sitting next to the pool.

Tomorrow we had the best of both worlds...a sea day and a port day. Our arrival in Cartagena, Columbia wasn't until noon so we could sleep late but yet still have the afternoon to get off the ship and explore!