Heading Home

Sunday, February 24

It was still dark when we got up and went to the hotel lobby to wait for our ride to the airport at 6 am. Coffee was available which was much appreciated but we were too early for the breakfast that was included in our stay. When the four of us booked the package deal for Iguazu Falls I had expected that all of our transfers would be together in a van. But no. Again two drivers in two cars showed up. Seems like putting us together in a larger vehicle would have been a cheaper alternative. I know that is what I would have preferred.

Kent and Laurel were traveling with 3 large suitcases, a carry on bag and two backpacks...almost more than the small car could handle. It took some creative maneuvering by the driver, but they made it.

On our way to the airport we went past the obelisk. Very pretty in the predawn light.

Puerto Iguazu Back to Buenos Aires

Saturday, February 23

Weather: Still hot 😓

Not quite so early of a start today as yesterday. Time to get what little we had repacked and have breakfast in the lobby. I was so disappointed to find out the fresh mango that was on the buffet yesterday was not to be seen today. I knew pretty soon we would be back to Minnesota's version of fresh fruit in the middle of winter...hard and no flavor. 😒

Our transportation to the airport was a van and we only had a stop or two to pick up other travelers. The drive took us back through the national park.

Loved this sign. (I magnified it in the photo.)

Iguazu Falls

Friday, February 22, 2019

Weather:  Hotter than hot...and humid too 😓

Iguazu Falls is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular natural attractions in South America and in the world. Shared between Argentina and Brazil, this set of 250 waterfalls are surrounded by a subtropical forest, and they have well earned their place as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and as one of the natural seven wonders of the world.  [Source: https://a.01argentina.com/]

The name "Iguazu" is loosely translated from the indigenous Guarani language as "big water". Unsurprisingly, former first lady, Eleanor Roosevelt, reportedly exclaimed "Poor Niagra" upon seeing Iguazu Falls for the first time.  Iguazu Falls is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular treasures of our natural world. [Source:  https://www.beautifulworld.com/]

Buenos Aires to Iguazu Falls

Thursday, February 21

Weather:  Hot, hot, hot

The end of the cruise...but not the end of our trip.

After breakfast in the buffet we went to our cabins to wait for our group to be called for disembarkation. Two of the things I like most about Holland America are that the cabins are ready right away when you start the cruise...and you can stay in your cabins until the last minute at the end of the cruise. It always makes a cruise end on a bad note when you have to leave your cabin and find someplace to sit in a public area when waiting to disembark. Usually these places are crowded and full of grumpy people...not fun.

The four of us had booked a package deal with 01Argentina to go to Iguazu Falls and we were scheduled to be picked up at 9:30 am at Gate 4 for our ride to the airport. Just like yesterday, the area around the gate was a madhouse. Lots of people were there waiting for their shuttle or tours...basically a mess. To make things worse (much worse) was all of the construction around the port was making it hard for the buses, vans, cars, etc. to get close to the gate. The small semi-circle drive in front of the gate was way too small for the full size coach buses to get through, but yet they were doing it.

Buenos Aires - Day 1

Wednesday, February 20

Weather: 94º, Sunny

I have a confession to make. Each night during this trip I faithfully wrote a blog post. Even when my eyelids were so heavy I struggled to see what I was writing, I recorded the days events along with my thoughts and feelings. That is...until this day. I hit the wall and not a word was recorded while we were in Buenos Aires. So for that...I'm sorry.

I have a folder full of photos that can help jog my memory, but it isn't the same as writing it down while things are fresh in my mind. So now six weeks later as I write...here is our day in Buenos Aires...and mostly in photos.

The four of us were joining eight others from Cruise Critic for an all day city tour of Buenos Aires with Patagonia Shorex. Our group met in the Ocean Bar and then left the ship together. Once outside there was a bit of chaos. Much construction was going on around the port which made things very congested for vehicles to get in and out but eventually our minibus arrived and we were off.

The majority of the day was spent driving with our wonderful guide (whose name I can't remember 😕) pointing out landmarks and sharing an incredible amount of facts. I don't think I've ever had a tour guide that provided so much information. A few times during the day we would stop and have time to explore an area on foot.

Floralis Generica is a steel and aluminum sculpture that was created in 2002. The petals of the flower are designed to open each morning and close each day at sunset. Our stop here was brief...just long enough to snap a couple of photos.

Montevideo, Uruguay

Tuesday, February 19

Weather:  86º, Partly Cloudy

The morning wasn't quite as rushed as a normal port day. The ship didn't dock at Montevideo until 9 am which gave us time to get up without an alarm and eat breakfast. (Reading back through my blog posts has made me realize just how much I hate alarms now that I am retired!)

Once the ship pulled up to the dock we switched our phones off of airplane mode to check our emails and texts. My son was just starting his day back in Minnesota and commented that our 4-year old grandson was having fun following the videos we were sending on the Marco Polo app. He has a large world map on the wall of his bedroom where he was following our route. An amazing discovery (to a 4-year old) was that the Falkland Islands were further away from Minneapolis than Sioux Falls, South Dakota where his other grandparents live. I know to him the drive to Sioux Falls seems like forever so it would be hard to comprehend going to the opposite end of the world!

We could look out our window and see the gangplank and when people started disembarking we left our cabins. Having a cabin right by the forward elevators/stairs is so convenient at ports. Today the gangplank was on Deck A directly below our window.

There is a painted walkway leading from the ship to outside the port area which we knew from the port talk a couple of days ago. We followed the path and once outside the port gates, we saw the double decker Hop-On-Hop-Off (HOHO) bus waiting. We bought all day passes using a credit card for about $22/person. As soon as the bus started loading, we climbed to the upper, open air level. The port was the beginning of the route so we had our choice of seats. Bob and I grabbed seats on opposite sides of the aisle so we had cameras pointed in both directions during the tour.

Here you can see the green path leading to the entrance of the port.

Final Sea Day

Monday, February 18

I was vaguely aware of the increase in ship movement during the night. A couple of times I heard loud thuds and the constant sound of waves against the hull. Before bed, I had taken an allergy pill (to combat the effects of the smoky smell in the cabin) and also melatonin and I slept well...not getting up until after 7:30 am. Bob woke about the same time and we dressed and went to the Lido for breakfast. (Not once during the cruise did we make it to the dining room for breakfast...maybe next time.)

Bob and I finished eating and went up (or I should say across and up) to the Crow's Nest for the 9 am "Coffee with the Cruise Director". His guest was the assistant cruise director. (Sorry I don't have her name and can't find it in any of the pile of papers I brought home from the cruise 😞.) She was from Colima, Mexico which was one of the places we visited on our last cruise. Interestingly, she has a degree in culinary arts with a specialty in pastries. We hadn't attended any of the activities she hosted during the cruise, but she was very outgoing with a contagious smile. It was interesting to hear what motivates people to work on a cruise ship.

The port talk for Buenos Aires was scheduled for 10 am and by 9:30 most of the theater was filled. Kevin, the EXC guide, did such a nice job of providing useful information in an interesting way. Buenos Aires is his hometown so he was also able to share personal information to the talk.

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Sunday, February 17

Weather: 92º F, Sunny

The alarm went off at 6:30 am as the Zaandam was approaching Puerto Madryn, Argentina. Bob hadn't slept well and said his cold was one of the worst he has ever experienced...even his eyeballs hurt. But...he isn't one to let a cold...even a bad one...stop him from doing what he wants.

We had breakfast in the buffet. Kent and Laurel came a few minutes later and it was so packed that we couldn't find four seats together. There was a small note on each table advertising that it was Asian night in the buffet tonight.

The gangway was being set up right outside our window so as soon as we saw people leaving the ship we left our cabins and without even thinking walked down the stairs to Deck A. No gangway there so we thought perhaps it was on Deck 3. Nothing there but we could see the ramp one deck below. Deck 2...Bingo.

We were off the ship before the announcement was made that the ship had been cleared...so much easier than when we have to tender. Large buses were lined up on the dock for HAL tours and just past those was a large group of independent tour operators. Right away I spotted a woman who had a sign with my name. Rita, who would be our guide, was waiting for two other people who would be on our tour and once they arrived we walked the length of a very long dock to where a minibus was waiting.

The gangway was set up right outside our cabin window.

Sea Day (on our way to Puerto Madryn)

Saturday, February 16

Once a little daylight started seeping in through the crack in the curtains, I was awake. I stayed in bed until almost 7:00 but then got up and dressed in the dark trying to be quiet so Bob could sleep. I left the cabin and made a stop at guest services to pick up a Wall Street Journal handout and a puzzle page. I looked through the mini-newspaper while I ate a waffle with strawberries at the buffet. It made me realize just how out of touch with the rest of the world we had been on this trip. We were somewhat aware of what was happening with the U.S. government shutdown, but that was about it. It's not that we don't have access to news on TV, we just have chosen to not watch.

After eating, I popped out on the aft pool deck to check the weather and was surprised at just how pleasant it was. Just a few days ago we were bundled up in so many layers we could hardly move and today I could easily tolerate being outdoors for some time without a jacket. I went down to deck 3 and walked a lap but there was enough sea spray to make me decide that one lap was enough.

I quietly grabbed my iPad from our cabin and went up to the Crow's Nest. Bob was still sleeping and the room was like a cave after being out in the bright sunlight. I read some on my iPad until 9 am when the cruise director showed up for his coffee chat. He said Scott (from the expedition team) was to have been his guest but wasn't feeling well. Instead he just talked a bit and then started having people share what trips are on their bucket lists. It was interesting to hear the different comments. People on this cruise are definitely well traveled.

Falkland Islands - Penguins, penguins, penguins!

Friday, February 15

Weather: 57º F, Cloudy

The world's southernmost capital, Stanley is located in the Falklands archipelago, which consists of two main islands, East and West Falkland, along with smaller islands nearby. Stanley is proud of its British heritage, evidenced everywhere from its red telephone boxes to its pubs. The Falklands were first claimed by the English in 1765; over the centuries the Crown has had to abandon, reclaim and defend these far-flung islands from invading nations—including an Argentine foray in 1982. During the early years of their colonization, the Falklands were used as a base for ships hunting sperm whales for oil, followed by those hunting seals for fur. Today in this remote British territory, fishing and tourism are what drive the economy. [Source: hollandamerica.com]

Click here for a video of our tour to Volunteer Point.

The alarm was set for 6 am and I woke up a couple of minutes before it went off. I had heard Bob coughing during the night and wondered how he would feel today. He announced that he thought his cold had settled in his chest, but the tummy troubles seem to be better. He wasn't feeling perfect, but he was a "go" for our adventure in the Falkland Islands.

Room service was delivered on time. Bob had some granola and OJ and I had ordered an omelet which was supposed to come with toast. Instead I got a plate full of butter and jelly...but no toast. I didn't want to bother someone to bring me a piece of toast so just ate the eggs. Now if they had messed up my coffee order...that would have me on the phone immediately! 😄

Shortly after 7 am we met up with a large group from our Cruise Critic roll call in the Wajang Theater. One of the members, Alex, had been instrumental in arranging multiple tours for our cruise and had make arrangements for those of us doing a penguin tour to get an early tender.

Our tour today was arranged well over a year ago with Patrick Watts to go to Volunteer Point to see a huge colony of king penguins. I had worried that our day in port was too short to make the long trip from Stanley and knew it was very important that we get on one of the very first tenders. Because of Alex's special arrangements we were on shore before all of the other independent tours and even before most of the HAL tours. Thanks Alex!! I checked my watch and it was 8:08 am when we stepped onto our tender to leave the ship.

On the tender.

Sea Day - Drake Shake

Thursday, February 14

I could feel the ship rolling and pitching all night. Every now and then there would be a very loud thud when a wave would hit hard...typical in a forward cabin in rough seas. At 1:30 am I woke up to use the bathroom and found out Bob was awake. He had been up several times and wasn't feeling well. With meclazine in his system I wondered if this wasn't something more than sea sickness.

I slept fine and actually enjoyed the rocking motion of the ship. I didn't want to wake Bob so stayed in bed myself as long as possible. I had sort of planned to go to "Coffee with the Cruise Director" at 9 am, but when I looked at the clock it was already 9:30! (I can't remember when I've slept that late!) I quickly dressed, put the "do not disturb" sign on the door and went up to the buffet. I had a yogurt/granola parfait and then went to the port talk on the Falkland Islands.

Antarctica Day #4 (Admiralty Bay)

Wednesday, February 13

Trying to convey what Antarctica is like in words and photos is so hard. Here is a link to a video I put together that does a little better job. It also lets you see how much the whales were showing off!!  😉 

Video of Our Days in Antarctica

Our first view out of our window was a large tabular iceberg. I'm sorry that we didn't have a balcony for this cruise, but very grateful that we at least had the window. Holland America classifies the balcony cabins on the Zaandam as suites and there was a huge jump in price to upgrade from the ocean view cabin...more than we were willing to spend.

Antarctica Day #3 (East Side Dallman Bay, Charlotte Bay, Schollaert Channel)

Tuesday, February 12

Weather-wise, our third day in Antarctica wasn't as stellar...but wildlife-wise it was like winning the lottery!!

When I first looked out our window at 6:30 am everything was totally gray. The clouds were so low that everything above water level was hidden. I turned on the TV at 7:00 when we were scheduled to get to the east side of Dallmann Bay but the commentary didn't begin until around 7:30. By 8:00 we were finally up and getting dressed.

When we got to the buffet for breakfast Kent and Laurel were already there. We joined them and ate slowly watching as whales and penguins passed by the window. Bob and Laurel both were complaining of oncoming colds.

After breakfast, Kent went to work out and Laurel went back to their cabin. Bob and I went up to the Crow's Nest. It was crowded but we were able to find two chairs in the "second row". The clouds were lifting and a few small patches of blue were showing. Looking out the windows wasn't great for photography, but the expansive view for such a high level was impressive. The group spoke in hushed tones until a whale would show off and then the group would all cheer!

The Crow's Nest is a great place to enjoy Antarctica...if ONLY the windows were clean. 

Antarctica Day #2 (Paradise Bay, Neumayer Channel)

Monday, February 11

No alarm today. I got up a little before 7 am and went to the buffet to get a muffin and coffee. With our cabin at the front of deck 1 and the buffet at the back of deck 8, I did get a little exercise doing this! Staff from the Palmer Research Station arrived by zodiac about the same time and were spending the day on the Zaandam.

Bob and I dressed in our arctic gear and went to the back of Deck 6. This time we were the only ones there. The day began with sun and blue skies but was turning gray by noon.

Looking out our cabin window.

Antarctica, Day #1 (Dallmann Bay, Cuverville Island, Wilhelmina Bay)

Sunday, February 10

I wasn't ready to get up when the alarm went off at 6:30 am, but this is what we came for...ANTARCTICA!

The planned route had us sailing through Dallman Bay with commentary to start around 7 am. Bob and I made a quick trip up to the Lido and grabbed muffins and a coffee for me and brought them back to the cabin to eat while we got geared up for the cold. Once I got the warm weather clothes on, I had to get outside quick...or die of a heatstroke.

At first there was a layer of low hanging dark clouds, but slowly the sun began to find its way through a bit. We enjoyed the scenery from deck 3 first and then went out on the bow and up to the deck just below the bridge until around 9:00. We then took a break and went to breakfast (or 2nd breakfast in our case). During the time we were on the bow I managed to trip over one of the metal supports for the hull and fell flat. No physical injuries, but my ego sustained a bruising.

Gray and windy at first.

A little blue starting to show through.

Drake Passage, South Shetland Islands, Deception Island

Saturday, February 9

I woke before 6 am and peaked out the window. I saw something white on the horizon against the gray sky. I got excited and thought it might be an iceberg, but then decided it was just clouds and crawled back in bed. 😴

I got up about an hour later, dressed quietly and went up to the Lido to get some coffee. (I sure wish HAL provided in-room coffee makers as Norwegian does!) I knew Bob would still be sleeping so I stopped by the library and looked through one of the books on Antarctic that was available. (The library on the Zaandam is pretty impressive...the best of any we have seen on a ship.) When I got back to our cabin, Bob was just starting to stir.

Using his binoculars, Bob looked out the window and could see a large tabular iceberg off in the distance. By the time he dressed and we made it up to breakfast, the Zaandam was just passing by the iceberg.

We got layered up in our warm clothes and went outside with Kent and Laurel as we were approaching the South Shetland Islands. The Zaandam was now sailing past much, much larger icebergs than the one which got us so excited last night.

Approaching the South Shetland Islands

Around 10 am, Laurel and I went back to our cabins while the guys went to the gym. I worked at backing up photos and then Laurel and I went to the theater for Scott's lecture, "Royalty on Ice," about emperor penguins. The guys had also made it to the theater a little later and found seats elsewhere.

During the Q & A session after the lecture, Laurel and I left to beat the crowd to the buffet. Bob and Kent joined us and we ate quickly to get done and be outside as the Zaandam approached Deception Island.

Over the course of the few days when we were in Antarctica I slowly perfected the combination of layers that seemed to work best for keeping warm. (With the ship moving, it was pretty chilly out on the open decks...but still about 60º warmer than what the actual temps were at home!)

My clothing amounted to either Cuddle Duds long underwear or a pair of fleece-lined leggings under my jeans and then topped by a pair of REI rain pants to block the wind. On top was a warm sweatshirt or sherpa top, my Columbia fleece jacket and finally my parka-length Eddie Bauer packable down coat. For headwear I had a fleece lined knitted beanie covered by a microfleece hood that I got at Kohls. This protected my neck and I could pull it up over my chin and mouth. I also pulled up the hood on my down coat...so 3 layers on my head altogether! I had purchased convertible wool mittens that could be folded back to expose the tips of my fingers to use my camera but these I never wore. Instead I put Hot Hands hand warmers inside my snuggly fitting gloves and my hands stayed toasty warm. I had also brought along foot warmers, but never used any. Wool socks kept my feet plenty warm. Getting dressed was time consuming, but we stayed outside for long periods of time and were comfortable.

Dressed for Antarctica!

Deception Island is a former volcano where the caldera has filled with water. There is an entrance on one side of the caldera that some ships can enter, but the Zaandam is too large. The commentary started as we got close to the island.

Google Map showing location of Zaandam
near South Shetland Islands.

Zaandam approaching Deception Island.

The opening into the caldera at Deception Island.

Lots of birds around the island.

On one shore was a very large colony of chinstrap penguins...pretty far away even with a binoculars or long zoom.

The penguin colony was huge!

We spent a lot of time on the outside decks in the afternoon and were rewarded with various wildlife sightings.

A pod of killer whales.

Penguins floating by on an iceberg.

A "porpoising penguin". (Say that fast three times!!)

Later in the afternoon, as promised, the captain sailed the ship past a tabular (flat on top) iceberg that was 5 miles wide by 11 miles long. According to Bryan, the expedition guide, Antarctica is divided up into 4 quadrants (A, B, C, and D) and the largest icebergs are given names based on where it originated. This one was A57. The berg was 180 feet tall above the water and as much as 1000 feet of ice was below the surface. Bryan said that if the ice was melted it would make enough water to run the Nile River for 75 years!!

One end of the massive iceberg.

A close-up of the iceberg.

Not wanting to miss anything, we chose to stay outdoors longer and skip eating in the dining room. Many of the choices at the Lido buffet were the same as what was on the dining room menu and it was a great...and quicker...alternative. We were worried we might miss something if we spent a couple of hours in the dining room.

Walking back through the mid-ship pool area after eating, the guys stopped for a little ping pong and then we went up to the Crow's Nest. At that time most passengers were having dinner or at the show and there were very few people up there. (The evening show at the Mainstage Theater was "Ancora"..."classical crossover vocal harmony group made up of four of the UK's finest classically trained young voices.")

As we sat there watching out the windows we saw whale after whale after whale! Scott, the expedition guide, showed up and did an impromptu commentary as well. Slowly more and more folks arrived (perhaps because of the Happy Hour special at the bar? 😉) We stayed until the sun set and it was too dark to spot any more whales.

Tomorrow's schedule has the expedition guides' commentary scheduled to start at 7 am as the Zaandam sails through Dallman Bay...time to call it a night and get some sleep.

Cape Horn

Friday, February 8

Narration for our circumnavigation of Cape Horn was to begin around 7 am. When we woke it was obvious the ship was rocking more so Bob and I both took a dose of meclazine just to be safe. I made a quick trip up to the buffet and grabbed a cup of coffee and some pastries and brought it all back to the cabin for a "pre-breakfast".

When we went outside, we could see the lighthouse and the sculpture of the albatross using our binoculars. The Celebrity Eclipse and the smaller Stella Australis were right in front of the island. In his commentary, Kevin said that we would sail around the island and then it would be the Zaandam's turn to sail "past the horn". It was going to be awhile before that happened.

As we waited, it began to rain. I went back inside the cabin and listened to the commentary over the TV until we had gotten around to the other side of the island. During that time the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to peak through.

The memorial to the sailors who have died going around the horn features the silhouette of an albatross.

The Celebrity Eclipse had pulled away, but the smaller expedition ship was still in the area and with binoculars (or my camera zoom) we could see people were going by zodiac from the ship to the shore. They were climbing up a very steep set of steps to get to the top of the hill.

A very steep climb!

Zodiacs loading at the back.

Once we "rounded the Horn", the Zaandam started across the Drake passage headed for Antarctica. Later in the cruise we were all "awarded" certificates acknowledging that we had followed in the footsteps of the great explorers when we went around the horn.



The four of us went for a late breakfast at the buffet, along with most everyone else on the ship. Bob and Kent went to a lecture at 10 am on the Antarctica treaty. I spent some time backing up photos in the cabin and then I joined Bob and Kent for the 11:00 lecture by Bryan titled "Antarctica - Isolated at the South." The topic turned out to the geology of the region and not about living in isolation as I had thought. I wasn't that interested, but had taken my iPad and worked on my blog notes as I half listened to what was being said.

Once the lecture was over everyone rushed off to eat lunch. We knew that the buffet would be a zoo (just like at breakfast) so we took our time leaving the theater. We hung around the guest services area and listened to the organ play at 12:15. (I had listened a few days ago but the others hadn't heard it yet.)

The lines to get food were very short when we got to the buffet, but finding a table was a challenge. Eventually we found one in the Canaletto part of the dining room. We lingered over lunch and then went back to the theater for a talk on penguins. A combination of a full tummy, the meclazine, and a speaker with a soothing voice had me nodding off...and Bob too.

I actually wanted to hear the talk at 3:00 on "My Life at Sea" but there was no way I could stay awake. Bob and I went back to the cabin for nap time. Bob was so sleepy that he laid down on the bed, covered up with his coat and didn't even bother taking off his shoes.

Over an hour later, I had to force myself to get out of bed to shower and get ready for dinner!

After dinner the entertainment on the Mainstage was Duo Yalba...two men who played music from all over the world on many different instruments. They were accompanied by the ship band. Unique...and not something we would ever experience except on a cruise.

Sunset was getting later each evening so when we left the theater we went up to the Crow's Nest. The minute we walked in I saw we were approaching a really large (at least at that point it seemed large) iceberg. I took a few photos with my iPhone but knew I could get a much better picture with the zoom on my camera.

We got so excited when we spotted this iceberg. In less than 24 hours we wouldn't have even paid attention to one this small!

I ran back to the cabin, grabbed my coat (the temps were in the 30's) and went outside. When I turned the camera on all I heard was a "click, click, click" and the sound of gears grinding. I frantically turned the camera on and off a few times but each time the result was the same...nothing. I took the battery out and replaced it but still nothing. I can't begin to tell you the sick feeling I had. Going to Antarctica without a camera!!! NO...it couldn't be happening!!

Taken with my iPhone. 😞

Bob went with me and I took the camera up to the photo shop for advice. The gal working there played around with the camera but said there was probably no way to fix it. I started looking at the cameras they had for sale. We had quite a bit of onboard credit which would help take the sting out of a large purchase. There was no way that I was going to be happy taking all of my photos with my iPhone.

I asked to look at any cameras they had with a decent zoom. I looked at a Nikon with an 83x zoom. Nice...but very big. A Canon with a 35x zoom was small enough but had no viewfinder which I really wanted. As I was looking at the cameras, Bob took mine and started twisting and pulling on the lens. He couldn't make it any worse, so why not! He yanked off the filter AND the rim around the lens but the camera started working! Yay!!

It was reassuring to know that I could purchase a new camera if needed but for now my old Canon SX-50 seemed to work. What a relief!

Although the seas had been a little rocky first thing in the morning, most of our day on the Drake Passage had been smooth sailing. We were experiencing the "Drake Lake" instead of the dreaded "Drake Shake!"

Glacier Alley and Ushuaia

Thursday, February 7

Weather:  55º F, Cloudy

Dramatic, fantastical, otherworldly—this is the end of the world, for real. Positioned at the southernmost tip of Argentina, this memorable port town is cradled between the pristine—and towering—Martial Mountains and accessed by the picturesque Beagle Channel. Founded in 1884, the far-flung spot welcomed missionaries, gold prospectors and naval officers before becoming known primarily as a penal colony. After its closure under the infamous Argentine leader Juan Perón, the large jail was reconfigured to house one of the city’s most popular museums. (Source: hollandamerica.com)

Google Maps

Today was a "two-fer". A combination of a scenic cruising day AND a port stop. Beginning at 6:30 am we were sailing through Glacier Alley with commentary by EXC Guide Kevin. There were a lot of low hanging clouds and just a generally gray morning. We saw multiple glaciers, none of which I remember the name of. 😏

Notice the distinct line in the water. The silt from the waterfall coming off the glacier causes the water to look milky.

Lighthouse in the Beagle Channel leading into Ushuaia.

As we sailed into the Beagle Channel, I kept track of our position using the maps.me app. With the occasional drizzle, we chose to view the glaciers from the protection of the Lower Promenade deck (deck 3).

When we first saw Ushuaia I got concerned that we were just going to sail by and skip the port which the Zaandam has done on a prior cruise this season. Not the case. If you notice in the last map above, there is a small island in the channel. The captain sailed around the island and came into Ushuaia from the other direction.

Our first glimpse of Ushuaia.

Breakfast had been light because we wanted to do an early lunch prior to our docking in Ushuaia around noon. When we went to the buffet at lunch it was obvious that everyone else had the same plan. Around 12:30 the captain made the announcement that the ship was cleared and we could go ashore. We joined the crowd making their way down to Deck A...a little easier for us than most since the gangplank was just down a short flight of stairs below our cabin.

The Celebrity Infinity was alongside the Zaandam as well as two or three expedition ships and what looked like an old sailing ship.

We walked down the long dock and past some shops looking for our tour guide, Ruben. I had gotten Ruben's name from the Ushuaia forums on Tripadvisor and had made arrangements for the four of us to do a private tour with him. It wasn't until we had gone the length of the long dock and got outside the official port entry that I saw someone holding a sign with my name. Right away I noticed the guy was wearing a name tag that said "Federico". He introduced himself and said Ruben wasn't able to make it and had asked him to fill in.

I was disappointed and a little concerned. I felt comfortable booking with Ruben after reading quite a few positive reviews online, but I knew nothing about Federico. Federico offered to call Ruben and after they talked in Spanish for a couple of minutes, he handed me the phone. Ruben apologized and said he had emailed me to let me know he was having car trouble and didn't want to take a chance of getting stranded a long distance away in Tierra del Fuego. I hadn't seen the email (yet) because I hadn't had any cell service for a few days. He said he would understand if we wanted to cancel, but at that point we didn't have any alternative so agreed to go with Federico.

Federico promised he would give us a good tour. He said he had already finished tourism training whereas Ruben was still working on getting certified. AND...he added that he had a better car than Ruben. 😉 Federico lead us to where his car was parked and he was right...it was a very nice and very clean car!

Our first destination was Tierra del Fuego and to get there we drove on the last few miles of the Pan-American highway.  This highway is a network of roads stretching from northern Alaska to Ushuaia, a distance of around 30,000 miles. According to Guinness World Records, the Pan-American Highway is the world's longest "motorable road." Technically that isn't true since the highway has a 100 mile gap between Central and South America but still...pretty impressive.

I was a little surprised to find that the section of the highway at Ushuaia was a dirt road...a very dusty dirt road. At times it was hard to even see where we were going. Federico's nice clean car did not stay clean for long.

The end of the Pan American Highway.

Wild horses.

When we reached the entrance to the park, Federico went in with Bob and Kent to help translate as they paid the entry fee via credit card. The cost for the two of us was $25.94. While in South America we primarily used our Capital One Visa card that has no foreign transaction fees. I have the Capitol One app on my phone and as soon as Bob made the purchase I received a notice of the transaction and also a text letting me know that our card was used in a foreign country. The text ask me to confirm that the charge was OK.

There were many large tour buses in the park, but since we were in a smaller car we were able to take a different road. Frederico parked and lead us on a walk along a clear, bubbling stream. In 1946 beavers were introduced in the area as a possible source for fur trading. The fur trade industry wasn't successful and the beavers multiplied and have caused millions of dollars in damages since then. We witnessed some of this damage.

Federico showing us some berries...

...which we sampled!

Getting away from the crowds.

If you know Bob you are not surprised by this photo at all.

Beaver damage.

Ribs anyone? 

I am not necessarily a bird watcher, but we saw some pretty unique birds in the park!

This bird reminded me of a loon...our Minnesota state bird!

Mussels exposed during low tide.

The "End of the World Post Office" is a tourist spot many visit so Federico took us there next. The post office was closed but the location is beautiful. Federico knows the man who opened the post office and from what he told us the guy is quite a character. We left the crowds and walked along the shoreline. It was low tide which exposed many mussels and other interesting things in the tide pools.

End of the World Post Office...closed.

Our last stop in the park was a scenic overlook. Federico warned us it would be crowded but that was an understatement. The view was nice, but tour bus after tour bus were unloading people in the area. Many were on Holland America tours from our ship. We only stayed long enough to follow the boardwalk and get some photos. There was also a bathroom next to the parking area that we were able to use.

People were lined up to get their photo by this sign I just snapped a photo and kept walking.

After we left the park, Frederico drove us to an overlook where we could see our ship and the town. I found it interesting that we had to go through a police check-point leaving town, but not to enter. No one else was around and the view was beautiful.

Can you imagine having this view in your back yard?

Frederico asked if we would like to go north of town. Not many tours go in that direction so we weren't sure if we wanted to use our precious time to visit someplace that wasn't that interesting. How thankful we were when Frederico convinced us to go. The mountains were probably some of the most beautiful I have ever seen!! He also stopped and he and the guys walked through a peat bog.

A glacier high up on the mountain.

Walking through the peat bogs.

Peat bog.

Squishy!

At one of the stops Federico pulled out his yerba mate cup and had some tea. He had also brought along some yerba mate tea bags and small cups so we could sample the tea. (This was our first experience seeing yerba mate on the trip...but certainly not the last!)

Federico was using a traditional mate cup.

By this time Federico seemed like an old friend and I was so happy that our day had played out as it had. Definitely one of the best tours on the cruise...and in all of our cruises! If you are interested in spending a day with Federico you can contact him at:  ananturismo@gmail.com or on Facebook at Anan Turismo. And even though we didn't get to meet Ruben, I am confident he would have given us a great tour as well. His contact info is: ruben-ushuaia@hotmail.com.

When we got back to town, Federico gave us a quick driving tour and then dropped us off at the port around 6:45 pm. Kent and Laurel walked to a nearby craft market so they could purchase a magnet (their souvenir at EVERY port) and Bob and I returned to the ship.

The four of us met at the Lido buffet for a late dinner and watched as the Zaandam pulled away from Ushuaia. The evening entertainment was "Planet Earth II in Concert", something we had seen before, but well worth seeing again. A series of videos from the Planet Earth series are shown on a big screen with the ship's musicians providing a live accompaniment. By the time we finished dinner, the show had already begun, but we found some seats in the back and enjoyed the last half.

It was still light when the show got over at 9:00 pm so we walked along the deck 3 taking in the view of the beautiful mountains. So incredible yet it was going to get even better!!

Many of these deck chairs were missing cushions when we did our Panama Canal cruise.
Now almost all of the chairs were without cushions and not very comfortable.

Pilot boat picking up the harbor pilot.