Monday, April 23
The Zaandam
arrived in Puerto Quetzal around 7 am. Our tour wasn’t scheduled to leave until
9 am so that gave us time to eat breakfast and then do a little internetting (a phrase I picked up from my blogging hero, Pescado Amarillo!) And thank you T-Mobile for giving us free data in Guatemala!
Buses were
already lining up when we docked. The ship offered several different shore
excursions for the day, but most all were just some form of a tour to the
colonial city of Antigua…over an hour away. Bob, Danny and I chose to do the “Antigua
on Your Own” which was basically transportation to the city. Once we got there
then (just as the name implied) we would be on our own to see the sites of the city.
Puerto Quetzal was an industrial port so
having a tour arranged was a good idea.
Our tickets
stated to meet on the dock at 8:50 am with a departure time of 9 am. After a
hearty breakfast in the buffet, the 3 of us walked off the ship at 8:30. I
stopped to visit briefly with the cruise director about tender policies, so I
could report back to the Cruise Critic roll call for our January cruise to
Antarctica. By the time we walked the few feet to where our tour was meeting
they had already loaded one bus and we were the last to board the 2nd
bus. I checked my watch and we were already on the road by 8:50…ten minutes
before our schedule departure time.
During the
drive to Antigua our guide, Malbi, shared all sorts of information and we got
to see some of the Guatemalan countryside. The coastal low lands slowly gave way
to hillier terrain and as we got close to Antigua the bus began climbing to an
even higher elevation. The last part of the journey the bus driver turned off
onto a bumpy, rural road which Malbi said would save us some time.
The large
buses are not allowed on the small cobblestone streets of Antigua so at the
edge of town we transferred from the coach into smaller minibuses. We were
dropped off at the Jade museum around 10:30 am and instructed to meet back
there at 2:00 for the return trip.
Malbi had
given us a map marked with some of the interesting and historical sites marked,
but told us it would take 3 days (not 3 hours) if we wanted to see them all.
There is a large volcano overlooking the city and Malbi said to use it as a
point of reference when looking at the map.
I had read
quite a bit about the city and watched numerous YouTube videos so I had some
sort of an idea of what I wanted to see and where things were located relative
to each other. By having free data on my phone, I relied on Google Maps for
navigation. The two Aussie couples that we had gotten to know at the daily
trivia were on our bus and asked if they could tag along with us.
Walking on the cobblestone streets required one’s
full attention to keep from tripping, running into the wrought iron window
grates, or being hit by a passing scooter. The sidewalks were very narrow (we
had to walk single file) and full of cracks so not an easy walk either.
The city is filled with examples of Spanish colonial architecture. There are multiple ornate churches located in the city, but earthquakes have left many of them in ruins. I had downloaded a couple of different walking tour apps for Antigua, but with our very short time in the city we did not have the luxury of stopping to read the history of the buildings. Malbi was correct...it would take much longer than 3 hours to see and enjoy Antigua.
Religious floats were stored inside the ruins of one of the cathedrals we walked by. Malbi said they are pulled in a parade on Easter.
We first
headed to the Arch of Santa Catalina. Built
in the 17th century, it originally connected the Santa Catalina convent to a
school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other
without going out on the street. A clock on top was added in the early 1800's.
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| Looking south through the arch you get a good view of the Volcano de Agua! |
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| Ladies in traditional dress carried large bundles of woven items in hopes of making a sale. |
My priority
was to get to the “mercado” or market. I knew the general direction and walking
down a back alley way we emerged right at the edge of the outdoor vegetable
market. The sights and sounds were a sensory overload…bright colored fruits and
vegetables, ladies in colorful dresses and lots of yelling as the vendors tried
to attract buyers to the produce. The 6 of us
wandered in and amongst the baskets overflowing with produce.
Our path
eventually led us to the indoor market which had more fruits and vegetables but
also stands selling meats, chicken, fish, dried spices and grains and non-food
items such as shoes and socks, clothing, tv remotes, etc. The aisles were narrow
and at times it was hard to navigate through the crowds. Not once while we were
in the market did I notice any other tourists…just locals. I had read
that Monday was one of the main market days and it seemed as if everyone from
Antigua and the surrounding areas was there to do their shopping.
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| Shopping in the shadow of a volcano! |
Our Aussie
friends were a little surprised when I announced that our next destination was
going to be a McDonald’s restaurant…but there was a reason. Before retirement,
Danny had worked for the McDonald’s corporation and he likes to visit the franchise
when he travels internationally. Again, from research, I knew this McDonald’s
was quite unique. From the street, the doorway was not very conspicuous and
would have been easy to miss if we were not specifically looking for it. However,
once inside, the restaurant opened up into a very large outdoor courtyard with
a large fountain and a view of the volcano and ruins dating back hundreds of
years! Oh…and also Ronald McDonald! Danny ordered a sundae and a drink, but Bob
and I were hoping to find some local food instead.
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| Not your ordinary McDonald's! |
As we walked
we were constantly being approached by sellers…women selling scarves, rugs,
shawls, etc. and men with painted wooden flutes and little wooden drum-like
instruments. They were in full force as we arrived in the center square…Parque
Central. I would have liked to have just sat for a time taking in the flurry of
activity and admiring all of the beautiful buildings that surround the square,
but we still had a couple of more stops planned and I wanted to find something
to eat.
I had hoped
there would be street vendors with food available around the square but all I
noticed was a man selling ice cream. I asked one person in a shop if there were
any food stands on the streets. I’m not totally sure she understood my question
but I think she said the street food vendors don’t show up until later in the
day.
We parted
ways with the Australian group at the park and the 3 of us (Danny, Bob and I)
continued on to the chocolate museum/shop. Prices were high, but Danny bought 5
packages of dark chocolate to take to crew members he had gotten to know on the
ship. Danny told me later that he had given one package to the guy who always
set up the lounge chairs on the promenade deck each day. As he handed him the
package, the crew member started crying and said “no passenger has ever given me
a gift!”
Going into
the chocolate shop, I made the mistake of momentarily looking at a flute that a
man was trying to sell. “Only one dollar!” He was still there waiting when we
walked out but somehow the “only one dollar” turned into a price of $21 when I stopped
to look. We haggled back and forth and eventually we negotiated a price of $15
for both the flute and one of the small drums. I tried to get him to go lower
but he kept saying “business is business”
As we were walking away, he quickly pulled out a carved mask and started trying
to bargain with Bob. Bob has collected quite a few masks in our travels, so it
didn’t take much effort before Bob was pulling out his wallet. I have no idea
if any of the things we bought were hand carved as the they claimed but
hopefully we did a little to help the economy!
Our time was
running short so when I noticed a very small restaurant across the street from
the chocolate shop, I decided that was where we would have lunch. There were
only about half a dozen tables inside and the food was already prepared and
being served cafeteria style. I wasn't sure how the pricing worked, but I
pointed to what I wanted and got a plate (which Bob and shared) with stewed
pork, rice, and pickled vegetables. They took credit cards, so I paid with my
Visa. The price was 40 Quetzals (the local currency) which showed up on my
statement as a charge of $5.41 USD. The meal also came with a basket full of
warm corn tortillas and was delicious!
This time it
was Danny who was the target of a woman selling scarves. He didn’t really want
to buy anything but she waited patiently by the door of the restaurant, peaking
in every few minutes to make sure Danny didn’t somehow escape! He kept saying “no”
but eventually when she offered one of the scarves for $3 he gave in. Her
comment (just like the guy I bought from)…”business
is business!”
Our final
meeting time was starting to get close but we were almost back to the Jade Museum where we would meet Malbi. The Jade
Museum must work with the cruise lines because they were set up to handle the
large groups waiting on the buses...lots of chairs and public restrooms. Bob and Danny took more time looking at the
displays and watching the stone cutters, but I was tired. I did find a lady giving
free coffee samples in cute little pottery mugs and then plopped myself down in
a chair next to the Aussie couples who were also there waiting.
Our guide,
Malbi, announced when it was time to board the smaller minibuses to take us to
where we would transfer to the coach for the ride back to the ship. And wouldn’t
you know it…we ended up in the back seats again!
On the return trip, Malbi talked
for a short while, but then let everyone sit back and take a nap…or siesta. Here are a couple of photos I took before nodding off myself.
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| Volcan de Agua (Water Volcano) was on one side of the highway and Volcan del Fuego (Fire Volcano was on the other side.) See addendum below. |
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| Interesting wiring! |
Onboard time was 4:30 and we were back sometime before that and had time to shower and dress for dinner.
MAIN
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| This is the route we took from the port to Antigua. The red marker is the Fire Volcano that erupted. The road we traveled went right between it and the Water Volcano which I posted a photo of above. From news reports we saw, this highway was buried under the ash from the eruption. |
Our hearts go out to those who lost family members and their homes in this deadly eruption. I wonder as I look back at my pictures if some of the people I photographed were ones who were affected.
Wonderful trip report and very helpful. Thanks You!
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